Day 2: Marrakech - Tizi-n-Tichka - Ait Ben Haddou
Our alarm clock rings at 6 in the morning and the first thing we do is go up to the terrace of our riad in the Royal Mansour to enjoy an impressive starry sky, with which we started this second day of the trip to the Route of the Kasbahs loaded of energy
Start at dawn in Marrakech
It's 8 in the morning when we go down to the breakfast room, which they serve in "La Table"and there we enjoyed one of the most complete and exclusive breakfasts that we have had the luck to taste in our trips.
Breakfast in Royal Mansour
Of course, this, like everything else in this incredible accommodation, is served and managed with the most detailed treatment that undoubtedly makes this a unique experience.
After this breakfast, when it is 9 in the morning and after saying goodbye to the Royal Mansour team we met yesterday when we spent a luxury day in Marrakech, they ask us for a taxi from the same reception, to take us to Boulevard Mohamed V , about two kilometers from the hotel, where the Hertz office is, where we have reserved the rental car in Marrakech for this Route through the Kasbahs.
If you do not want to drive a good option is to book this day tour with a guide in Spanish where you will be picked up at the hotel.
If you have more days you have the option of booking a 3-day excursion to the desert of Merzouga, where you will pass through Ouarzazate or this two-day tour, the two excursions are with a guide in Spanish and will pick you up at the hotel.
He has to say goodbye to Royal Mansour
It does not take us more than 10 minutes to arrive and we are very surprised that the taxi driver when we ask him how much we owe him, tells us to pay him what we want. We are quite surprised and more when we have experience of our previous trip to Marrakech and know that this does not work exactly like that. But as you have been called directly from Royal Mansour, we believe that this is the reason for this deal "special"In the hotel we had been told that for these types of routes the price was about 50-60 dirhams, so we give 70 for the deal and there we are going to start our Route of the Kasbahs, one of the routes that We wanted to do more in this country.
More practical information to prepare your trip to Marrakech- 50 things to see and do in Marrakech
- The 5 best tours and excursions in Marrakech
- The best desert excursion from Marrakech
- 10 essential places to visit in Marrakech.
- 10 essential places to see in Morocco
- 10 essential tips for traveling to Morocco
It's almost 9:30 in the morning when we stand at the door of Hertz's offices and when we see that it is not open and there is a phone number pointed on a piece of paper, the face that remains is photo. We made the reservation at 9 in the morning, although we warned that we would probably arrive later and casually a Catalan couple who is also waiting, they have the reservation at 9 and have been waiting since that time.
Faced with our discomfort, a boy in a shop next door calls the phone at the door and tells us that they will come soon. But as usually happens in these cases, the minutes go by and no one still appears.
In the end, a girl arrives after 10 in the morning, and without even apologizing, she opens the office and instead of attending to those we have been waiting for more than an hour, she starts making reservations by phone. We are on vacation, we know, but the truth is that they could have a little bit of sense with these things and work differently.
After a few minutes a man appears, who makes us go to a table where after half an hour of paperwork, including 3 attempts with different credit cards that they do not work, we just found one that does give us the ok in the machine.
We went out to the street and carefully checked the car with him, the truth is that we have to say that it is the time we have done most on our trips, even pointing the small scratches and small, almost invisible taps. It's finally almost 11 in the morning when we start our car and put the address of Ait Ben Haddou on the GPS that will accompany us the next 3 days of travel through the most scenic Morocco.
Book the best rated tours and excursions in Spanish from Marrakech by travelers:
- Excursion to Ouarzazate
- Free tour of Marrakech Free!
- 2-day Zagora desert excursion
- Excursion to Essaouira
- 3-day excursion to the desert of Merzouga
- More excursions and tours here
Book the best rated tours and excursions in Spanish from Marrakech by travelers:The initial idea was to stop first in Telouet, one of the most scenic kasbahs of this route, but seeing the time we have lost with the rental paperwork, we decided that it is best to go directly to Ait Ben Haddou from Marrakech, which is where we will stay tonight, passing before the highest port in Morocco, Tizi-n-Tichka, where we want to make a brief stop to admire the incredible landscape.
Once underway we pass through the Medina of Marakech and the palm grove, areas that bring us so many memories of our previous trip to the city and especially observe, even through the car, the everyday scenes of Morocco, one of the things we like most about this country.
Crossing Marrakech by car
Upon leaving the N8 which is the road that crosses the city and we enter the N9, the landscape begins to change, enjoying the Atlas at all times just in front of us.
The road is pretty good and driving is not as bad as we had read, at least so far.
As it happened to us on the trip to Naples and Pompeii a few weeks ago, we have to say that the traffic here is not worse than any big city, although it should be noted that you have to be especially careful with the things That cross your path. And it is that both people and animals can leave the most unexpected places.
Something to keep in mind is that when you see a policeman, something very common in Morocco, is that you have to reduce the speed and as you approach it, stop or follow, as directed. This happens especially in cities, in their entrances and exits, which is where there are more controls.
If you are going to overtake a motorcycle, a car or a truck, it is best to whistle, so that the other realizes it and as far as possible, if the road is narrow, separate. And above all, be careful "with the biggest"that is to say trucks and buses, these do not rarely skip some rules.
Moroccan roads
Our GPS marks about 2 hours to reach Tizi-n-Tichka, although from what we have read these roads not as fast as they seem, so in this first section to reach Ait Ben Haddou from Marrakech, we will find out if the GPS calculation is as true as we expect.
The truth is that this area of Morocco is an area where you would be stopping every few minutes, as we go through spectacular landscapes with small villages that adorn the landscape like a painting by a painter.
Landscapes of Morocco more scenic
When we take about an hour's journey, in a slope area we find a super slow truck in front, to which we react in advance since it is a fairly long straight line, but with a continuous line. And according to what we have told you a few lines back, you can already imagine what happens to us, right? A few meters later, a couple of police officers stop us, asking us for the car's papers, passport, driving license ... And after checking everything, they tell us that we have committed an infraction, advancing in a continuous line.
The face that remains is a poem. We explained that when we went so slow we thought that could (??? At this time any excuse is valid for us), to which he replies very correctly that in Morocco this is not so and that the infraction for having done so is 1st grade, so we have to pay a fine of 700 dirhams. The first, in the front. We got out of the car and Roger with a sad face tells him that it is a bit expensive and that it would be great if he could lower it a bit. After a brief conversation, always with a smile on our mouth (we), he tells us that seeing that we are on vacation, he will put in the papers that we were going without a belt, which is a second degree infraction and therefore the Price is reduced to 300 dirhams. The truth is that we do not know exactly what would have happened if we had not spoken French, since none of them spoke English ... although well, surely with the global language of the signs, we would have reached the same end, although taking a little longer.
With the fine filled, in our possession, a handshake with the police and 300 dirhams less in the wallet, we return to the road to follow our route, now entering the curves and totally convinced that the overtaking is over. Nothing and nobody on this trip.
After a good turnaround and a narrow road, we arrive at Tizi-n-Tichka at 2260 meters above sea level, where there is a small esplanade, with several souvenir shops and a cafe.
Tizi-n-Tichka
It is 1:30 pm, so we take the opportunity to eat here, in the only cafe / bar there is, and the stomach is already starting to ask us something to eat.
We ordered a couple of tortillas, one of them Berber, plus some chips and water for 105 dirhams. We have to say that everything is great, seasoned with olives and a couple of apples that the duel gives us before we leave.
Eating in Tizi-n-Tichka
Start to tighten the heat and it is that as much as we are at 2000 meters, we have 23 degrees and it shows.
Once we have eaten we begin to take stock of the planning we did in the preparations for the trip to the Kasbah Route and we realize that we have been too illusive with the times and that, especially the last day of travel, in which we have scheduled Going from Tinherir to Marrakech, having the flight back home at 7 pm, that without counting the stops we had planned, is a barbarity. The problem is that the times marked by virtual maps They have nothing to do with reality, where you have to add several more hours to each journey.
Seeing this, we decided that it is best to suppress the area of the Valley of the Roses and some of the Kasbahs that we had next to Skour and focus on Draa Valley and the Route of the Thousand Kasbahs.
In this way we will have to cancel the reservation we had in a kasbah of Tinherir to sleep last night and look for some other place in the Ait Ben Haddou area, making the most famous kasbah in Morocco Our base for this trip.
While it is true that changing plans like this is not something we like, we must be consistent and above all try to reward the enjoyment of the trip and not wanting to see too much, this being almost impossible to carry out. And in addition, in this way we also have the great excuse of returning to this area of Morocco to know on another occasion the part that we have skipped.
Views from Tizi-n-Tichka
And so, with this change of plans in mind, we return to the road on the way to Ait Ben Haddou from Marrakech, just crossed the highest port of Morocco, Tizi-n-Tichka and contemplating a completely different landscape, much greener, as you go down.
Amazing landscapes
Almost arriving at Ait Ben Haddou, we see a detour that indicates that we are only 6 kilometers away, so we take it, ignoring the GPS and in a second we see ourselves on a dirt track impracticable for passenger cars. Just when we are going to turn around to take the road again, a boy beckons us and tells us that if we go to Ait Ben Haddou we have to go straight and take the next detour, since this road is shorter, but only to 4 × 4. By thanking him for helping us, he tells us that he is going there and that he would be very grateful if we took him there.
And so, without eating it or drinking it (and it won't be the last time) we are accompanied by Said, a super friendly Berber, to Ait Ben Haddou about 15 kilometers down the main road from here.
Said is helping us all the time telling us when we should reduce the speed because there are controls and we have to say that we remain with our mouths open when a few meters later we find several cars stopped by the police, who are effectively doing controls and stopping Cars that have seen by radar were going very fast a few meters back.
Once in Ait Ben Haddou, right at the entrance, where we have our accommodation, we say goodbye to Said who insists about 100 times so that we go to his house to have tea and meet his family, offer that we decline, not for not wanting if not because we have the right time to see this afternoon Ait Ben Haddou, the main reason for this Route through the Kasbahs of Morocco.
It's 4:30 pm when we arrive at Bagdag Café, our accommodation in Ait Ben Haddou, 5 hours after leaving Marrakech, counting the stop to eat. In total we count that to reach Ait Ben Haddou from Marrakech, without stops are about 4 hours or so.
In Bagdag Café, Mohamed, the owner, welcomes us, choosing a room and showing us the whole establishment, and then offering us tea with pastries in front of the pool. This is hospitality and the rest is nonsense.
Tea in Bagdag Café
We take this opportunity to ask him if we can stay one more night and he tells us that he is very sorry, but that he has it complete but that he will recommend us some place nearby where we can stay.
And so, with the itinerary already solved, we left our bags in the room and went out to the terrace to enjoy the snack that Mohamed has just offered us.
Views of Ait Ben Haddou in the distance from the terrace of Bagdag Café
It is 5 in the afternoon when we leave Bagdag Café, booking dinner before 8:30 at the same hotel, where we have read they make a great menu and we go straight to enjoy Ait Ben Haddou.
Remember that although you can make this visit for free, if you want to do it in a comfortable way from Marrakech, without worrying about transport and with a guide in Spanish, it is highly recommended to book this Excursion to Ouarzazate, which includes the visit to Ait Ben Haddou .
Leaving Bagdag Café, turning left we are less than 100 meters from the road from where you have the typical photos of the Kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou next to the river.
Road to Ait Ben Haddou
What can we say that does not include the impressive word. Absolutely nothing. As we move forward and we have a much more complete view of the Kasbah, we understand why this is one of the most photogenic enclaves in Morocco.
Views of Ait Ben Haddou
Photographing Ait Ben Haddou
In this small road, before reaching the river area, we find a multitude of craft shops and different souvenirs in which to take a souvenir of this area of Morocco, paying or exchanging something that you have brought in the suitcase, something that we They are constantly repeating all the way and something they look very interested in.
Ait Ben Haddou
Ait Ben Haddou
This area is where we find the best known image of Ait Ben Haddou, the most scenic and also the most wanted, so we have to take it easy and although there is almost no one at this time of the afternoon, the groups usually come in the morning and it is not an area that is usually visited for free, we have to wait a few minutes until we We are alone and can take pictures with only a few children as protagonists.
Ait Ben Haddou, an impressive enclave in Morocco
After taking the photos of rigor, it is necessary to cross the river passing through some makeshift sandbags, which allow you to do it without getting wet and enter one of the great reasons why we have come for the third time to Morocco: Ait Ben Haddou.
Architecture in Ait Ben Haddou
Ait Ben Haddou is considered one of the best preserved kasbahs in Morocco and it is declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. But not only because of this it is one of the most visited places in the country. Apart, Ait Ben Haddou has been the scene of great films like Lawrence of Arabia or Gladiator, something that has greatly increased tourism, this being an important source of income for the economy of the people.
Streets of Ait Ben Haddou
The Kasbahs, among which are this Ait Ben Haddou they are architectural ensembles, made of mud and adobe, that constituted Berber villages surrounded by walls to be able to defend both the houses and their crops and the palm groves that grow in the surroundings.
In the Kasbah of Ait Ben HaddouWe have a great example, where we can see how all the buildings are located in front of the mountain, with towers on the sides and a defensive wall that surrounds it.
Ait Ben Haddou
As we go into the streets of the Kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou We like the place more and we enjoy it more. We are practically alone at this time of the afternoon and we are crossing with little craftsmen's shops, which by the way sell real works of art, and where we have to say, they are not at all insistent.
On the way to the top of Ait Ben Haddou we see some wood carvings that a boy is working, representing the kasbahs that we think are spectacular and that as you can imagine, we can not pass up and that they have come with us home as a souvenir of this trip to the Kasbah Route.
Shops in the Kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou
There are a few minutes to 7 in the afternoon when we reach the highest part of the Kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou, at which time one of the most beautiful images of the day is presented to us: Ait Ben Haddou from the top, a true wonder.
Kasbah of Ait Ben Haddou
Window to Ait Ben Haddou
A few minutes before it begins to sunset we begin to descend from the high part, enjoying a unique dance of colors on adobe constructions, which leaves us an indelible memory of this trip.
Stunning views of Ait Ben Haddou in the late afternoon
It's 7:30 when the sun starts to hide and we return to our accommodation in Ait Ben Haddou for dinner and rest, before continuing tomorrow this amazing route in Morocco.
At 8:30, as we had been with Mohamed we go to the dining room and there they serve us a menu that includes salad plus meat tagine with dessert and coffee or tea for 100 dirhams per person. All great, for suck your fingers. Without a doubt, it is very worthwhile to enjoy Moroccan cuisine here.
Dinner at Bagdag Café
After dinner, with a good mint tea, as tradition dictates and when it is just after 10 pm, we return to our room to rest for a day more than complete on this trip to the Route of the Kasbahs in Morocco.
Day 3: Ait Ben Haddou - Ouarzazate: Kasbah Taourit - Agdz - Draa Valley - Tamnougalt - Timiderte - Ouarzazate
